June 16, 2004 - Wednesday

Kyoto By Bus Map

It's a lot easier to get around the Epcot version of historic Japan that's in Florida. Even with stubby eight-year old legs, I remember the place you buy those Japanese panels on ribbons and sticks that clap down until you turn them over and do it again. It was only next door to the Norwegian Flume Ride, and that was a lot of fun. Thus Japan and Norway have ever been linked in my mind, may Walt burn in hell. Or perhaps freeze in his cryogenic chamber.

The Lot Of Fun™ ride today was the Shinkansen. Don't-kick-me-in-the-what, you say? Why, Shinkansen! If you were to buy an English book on these trains (which I very much intend to), you would search Amazon for "Bullet Train". The very first of these extremely high-speed inter-city trains was shaped like a blunt-nosed bullet, but most of the current ones take on various bizarre shapes that look poised to rip a hole in the subspace continuum. And they do, for all I know.

The Nozumi Super Express, which I had cleverly booked for 7:26AM, was not the gnarly double-decker silver and yellow monstrosity that I had seen creeping evilly through the city late on Sunday night. So now I have to go back to Asakasa and buy a model of the train I actually took. I still love that yellow train; it could kill you if it looked at you. It probably won't, but you should still stay away.

I only barely made it to my train on time, both this morning and this evening. But that's the great thing about trains: if you can get onboard within 2 minutes of the departure, winded and heaving from running across towns and up escalators, and you're set. Think about that the next time you're (or I am) killing two hours in an airport departure lounge.

Think about it the next time your airplane is about to take off too, because the full runway speed of a commercial jetliner seems to be about the clip we were driving at, all the way to Kyoto. I tried to take appropriately blurry pictures but it was too bright for that tomfoolery. So check out this video:

Faster, Faster!

That movie may look sped up, but it's realtime. This is a fast train. But still smooth and relatively quiet -- like an airplane inside but more roomy and with better scenery. The trains can get up to nearly 200mph just on steel rails and overhead lines! Forget super-conducting magnets. And Kyoto is still two and a half hours away (including very brief stops at Shin-Yokohama and Nagoya). It must have taken ages to get between Kyoto and Edo back in the 1850's when they switched the location of the capital. And they traveled via oxuhh cartuhh.

So getting to the ancient capital of Japan is no sweat. What happens once I arrive?

Well that's what I like to know. I have a Tokyo guidebook but its discussion of Kyoto involves some gushing about the two thousand temples, and a suggestion to buy the whole Japan guidebook, which I'm not about to do even if I knew where to find an English book store and I don't. (hmm the entirety of page 50 discusses English bookstores. Oh well, screw you Lonely Planet!)

I got off the train with a sense of impending enlightenment and my new friend Chikayo's vague words that there had to be a tourist information office somewhere, and I should visit the golden house in the northwest and some garden in the southeast. She wanted to buy me a guidebook and map in Japanese but I said what's the point?

The sum total of what guidance I got in Kyoto is this: a bus map.

Well it wasn't an ordinary bus map. It had big drawings of most of the major temples in town and overly (I'd say confusingly) detailed information grid on how to get to them from other places -- by public bus. Also it was not to scale and had no indication of distance. So let's say I was less prepared to explore Kyoto than I have been of any city since Hong Kong, and there I had Dave to show me around. Perhaps I set myself up for this. Am I getting burnt out on memorizing Lonely Planet guidebooks?

It was nearly eleven after I found my first international ATM with English computers in a couple days, so it was time to make some progress. Most of the sights were apparently in the mountains surrounding the town (however big it was ... walking distance or a day's drive, I had no idea). But smack in the middle was a huge park labeled Imperial Palace.

Well you can't go wrong with an Imperial Palace, and it was right on the subway line.

I canvassed the entire park to find two pieces of information, one good and one bad. The good news is the Japanese have no phobia of flame throwers after WW2. They were using them even today to destroy weeds cropping up in the gravel walkways. And with a sense of righteous vengeance, it would appear.

The bad news was the Imperial Palace had only two tours a day. The remaining tour was at two o'clock, assuming you could arrange the necessary paperwork with the Imperial Household Agency. Yes, that's a real organization, and they wield the power of the samurai.

So two and a half hours before I have to be back here to find out under which end-zone they buried Hirohito's body (is that it?). Now where to go and how to get back? I started walking west along Imadegawa Street, toward Kinakuji Temple, ie the golden house. After what seemed like a long time (but I have badly worn out my feet in three days of walking all over Tokyo) I had come to the first of four major intersections along the way. So Kyoto is pretty big after all.

I jumped on a bus but it soon turned down a side street. I put some real thought into the entire system, comparing the map with schedules on the stops, and realized that with twice-hourly buses around town I was never going to see anything in one day.

So I took a couple cabs. I haven't been in Limos as fancy and fussy as Japanese taxis. The doors open and close automatically (car doors!). The backseat is covered in white doilies and the driver puts on white gloves with snaps, and makes small meticulous notations in a book at stoplights. I imagined he was writing praises about a nice American who said "konnichiwa" and was about to thank him with "arigato gozaimasu" if we'd ever get where we were going and if the meter didn't tick over to 800 yen.

At around ten dollars a pop, there should have been a toilet or wet bar, or maybe some geishas. But random buses (or waiting an hour for the right one) at $2.20 per trip isn't going to work either. Oh, how I long for countries where I could rent and crash motorbikes for six dollars and a pack of lies. Or hire one with a driver for $10/day in even the most heavily touristed spot (Siem Reap, Cambodia by Angkor Wat).

I traipsed around Kinakuji, and I was actually stunned by the sight of it at first glimpse. The old gilded house on a lake, and manicured garden gave me a chill that yes, this is what I had come for. This is the massaged ancience you can get only in the zeroth world (first world? see ya in the rear view).

At the souvenir shop I bought a couple amulets of Traffic Safety. There are many items to assist in many endeavors, but without Traffic Safety you have nothing.

On my "map" there was one road and a quarter of an inch between the drawing for Kinakuji Temple and Ryoanji Temple down the road. I spent a sweaty half-hour walking between them.

Ryonji is a big pond and a rock garden, which on the face of it are nothing special at all. But I sat down and carefully aimed my feet away from anyone or anything in particular (I think that's a Buddhist thing and this would be more of a Shinto dealie, but who can tell), and I really enjoyed just sitting there and looking at fifteen rocks arranged in a pattern six hundred years ago and raked around with gravel ever since. I think they got it right.

Daikakuji Temple was "next door", my bus-map appeared to say, but I had no time. I had to get back to the Imperial Palace and maybe call my uncle to ask just what exactly he meant in an email demanding a small smooth stone from Kyoto. If it's two o'clock in Japan, what time is it in Iowa? But my iPod listed his phone number as his email address and there was no time to research further. The emperor awaits! (I have since sacked my secretary)

The Kyoto Imperial Palace, home of Japan's Emperors from 1331 to 1869, is indeed a hell of a thing. It's big and old looking, and very Japanese-looking too. But I think the most impressive thing is how many times it's burned to the fucking ground. My tourist pamphlet doesn't even number the times, only saying "Over this period, the Imperial Palace was often destroyed by fire and reconstructed." With paper walls, bark ceilings, and candles for light, the only wonder is why Japan didn't invent concrete. They got so used to exactly synthesizing the Palace that by 1854's fire they re-created the entire compound in one year.

They always reproduced it exactly. The 1854 version is the one that's still around today, but it contains designs and technology from many different periods in Japan's history because each building was re-created exactly as it was when it was first built. I think that sums up Japan precisely.

The Imperial Palace is the only site in Kyoto that's obviously operated by the national government. The downside is you're very limited in where you can go because the actual Emperor of Japan sometimes (but very rarely) comes to hold court here. But on the other hand it's entirely free. Even the pamphlets, bag lockers and guided tours are free. At all the other temples it's four to six hundred yen to enter each one ($4-$6). And if you don't read Japanese, you can only admire the lovely handwriting on the informative signs.

I asked the tour guide what she could tell me about small round flat and smooth stones. I think she thought I was joking and then suggested a garden supply store by the Kamo River bridge. I began to remember that Scarlett Johansson's character in Lost in Translation had brought Bill Murray's character a small white stone back from her trip to Kyoto.

Is that what this mad poet is after?

Well forget him, and I like that movie too. I had examined postcards in the Imperial Palace gift shop in the hope that one would jump out at me as the site of Scarlett's Kyoto visit. I'm truly amazed to report that one did. As soon as I saw the Nanzenji-Zen card I knew that was it. It was the huge wooden frame she climbed up and stepped through before seeing the couple being married. I was sure that had to be the place.

I've mentioned Lost in Translation before and I'll mention it again (because I went to the Park Hyatt a few days ago and I'll discuss that later) but it's not like I'm obsessed with the movie. I saw it once in Glendale with Brian in October, and the second half again on the plane to Perth two months ago. It's just nice to have a more personal connection to a place than saying "Well I went to a restaurant called Kyoto once." Like searching out all the Ghostbusters movie sights in Manhattan. Why not? (btw the stationhouse is on North Moore in Tribeca)

I hate city buses for many reasons but I saw that Nanzenji Temple was right by one of Kyoto's two subway lines. Off I went to the subway, wincing at all my blisters, and stopping by Nijo Castle on the way. Nijo Castle is a heavily fortified compound from the Shogun era, and it was quite interesting but I'm afraid I rather rushed through it in the hope of getting to Nanzenji before closing. Nijo closed at four and I hoped Nanzenji would stay open until at least five. One very fascinating aspect of Nijo is the "Nightingale Floor". All the main hallways in the palace are wooden flooring that squeaks in a very high pitch when you walk on it. I don't know how they do it because it's not annoying, indeed it sounds exactly like a Nightingale. Or some sort of bird (what's a Nightingale?). The idea is to confound assassins and sneaky guys who would creep up and do away with the Shogun.


Many people think I'm arrogant, although I don't know why. But it's time to do some boasting now. Think of it. Based on a single postcard and the memory of a movie in a tiny airplane seatback monitor, I picked out the one temple in Kyoto I most wanted to see. And I was right -- I looked it up online when I got back to Tokyo (as if I had to double-check after I saw it). Nanzenji-Zen Temple and Nanzenji-In shrine are where Scarlett Johansson went in that movie. Nanzenji-In was closed by 5PM but through the gate I'm sure it's where that pond with the stepping stones is. I wouldn't want to step on them anyway without her (well her from GhostWorld).

The trick is after basically five months of wandering down new streets every day I've gotten very good at recognizing places and I always have been to start with. By this point, if I've ever been anywhere before, only once, and if I return -- from any angle -- I can quickly realize it and re-orient myself. This may seem easy but sometimes I surprise myself when I get lost and then realize where I am based on a rushed stroll-through four days before. I only wish it was more than a party trick.

Boasting aside, Nanzenji is glorious. I reckon there are another twenty or more compounds as beautiful as it is in Kyoto, and I hope to see them all some day. Nanzenji was the best way to end my first single day in Kyoto. There's no point in describing it further, and though I took some photos I doubt they compare to the lush ... happiness ... of the waning sun through the leaves, scattering on the moss and wooden panels and brick aqueducts, ponds of fish, and totems and incense bowls.

After climbing around and taking pictures, I sat on the Sanmon for a long time and drank the place in like a stew. It was really good. I nearly missed my train for it.

Stamped June 16, 2004 11:25 PM in Japan
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